Step 7: Install the First Row You may want to start in a fairly square room with few obstacles in order to get a feel for the process before tackling more complicated obstacles. With the tongue side facing the wall, start by placing a plank in the corner. Attach the next plank by sliding it into the end groove from a 45-degree angle. When you lower it into place, you’ll feel it make a solid connection. High-quality planks may even make a clicking or snapping noise that confirms the lock into place. Lower-quality planks may have more movement and a less firm connection. Use ¼ -inch spacers to create a gap between the planks and walls. This allows room for the flooring to shift and expand. Don’t worry, the gap will be covered by trim. Just make sure to monitor the size of gaps as you work. Work your way down the row with full planks. Then, cut the last plank in the row and install it into place. Use the remainder of the same board to begin your next row. This will create a staggered look so your seams are spaced across the floor. It also makes efficient use of materials to limit waste.
Step 9: Cut Planks Around Obstacles
Obstacles are the most challenging part of installing laminate flooring. Take your time and think about each cut before grabbing the saw. For doorways, vents, or other obstacles, measure and mark the laminate plank accordingly. Use a jigsaw to make precise cuts. You may need to install around obstacles before attaching the surrounding boards. A pull bar comes in handy when the boards don’t want to slide together.
Step 8: Install Subsequent Rows
As you work on the second and subsequent rows, you’ll attach the tongue to the groove in the prior row, along with the groove to the tongue on the board beside it. This is where your tapping block comes in. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the boards together, ensuring a tight fit before moving on to the next board. This takes some practice, but you’ll get into a rhythm after a few rows. Stop frequently to make sure your seams are evenly staggered, and, for stability, don’t use partial boards less than six inches long in the main areas of the room.
Step 10: Install the Final Row
You’ll probably need to rip boards for the final row. You can do this with a table saw, jigsaw, or circular saw. Measure the width needed for the final row, accounting for the expansion gap, and cut the planks lengthwise to fit. Insert the final planks into place, using the pull bar to gently maneuver them into the correct position.
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